Stopped at Berceste in Bolu at the halfway point between Ist and Ank--it's a natural products store and regular restaurant with cool stuff in the store section like elderflower jam, milk thistle seeds, pomegranate flower tea and flaky new age stuff without (much) new age marketing.

I was baffled by a sign on the restaurant window--on all the windows--and on the door that read:

"camlar ilaclidir" (rough translation: windows are chemically treated)
"kapi ilaclidir" (door is...)

anyone have a clue what that means? just a ploy to keep children's fingers off the glass? i didn't see evidence of dead insects on the inside pane of the glass...Unfortunately the waiters were all on lunch break when I went to inquire...