Wonderful, wonderful, wonderful. Efes is the place that all the books point you (and the library is fantastic) but this place is just so much better (if you like scrambiling around Roman ruins, that is). Much better layout; beautiful setting in amongst snow-capped mountains; museum on site with wonderfully preserved statues; and eye poppingly beautiful (and well preserved) stadium, town hall and theatre. Will be reporting this to Tom Brosnan's travel planner.

Can also recommend the beautiful village of Seringe (just the drive there from Selcuk is worth it) and the Hotel Kalehan in Selcuk. The hotel will be particually nice in summer when the roses in the garden are out and the swimming pool is full but, in winter, chestnuts and tavla by the fire more than compensated. Also has good organic restaurant.